The Care and Feeding of Your Watch: A Maintenance Guide for Collectors

You’ve done the hard part: you researched, saved up, and finally bought the watch. But whether it’s a rugged field watch or a delicate vintage dress piece, the moment you put it on your wrist, the clock starts ticking on maintenance.

Watches are precision instruments living in a hostile environment (your wrist). They face sweat, magnetism, door frames, and gravity daily. The difference between a watch that lasts five years and one that becomes a family heirloom is how you treat it when you aren't looking at the time.

Here is the no-nonsense guide to keeping your collection running fast, true, and clean.

Phase 1: The Daily Rituals

You don't need to baby a tool watch, but you do need to respect it. Small daily habits prevent expensive repairs later.

1. The "10-Second Wipe"

Your skin oils and sweat are acidic. Over time, they degrade rubber gaskets and corrode plating (especially on vintage gold-plated cases).

• The Fix: Keep a microfiber cloth on your nightstand. Give the case back and crystal a quick wipe when you take it off.

2. The Invisible Enemy: Magnetism

If your mechanical watch suddenly starts running +20 seconds fast per day, it’s probably not broken—it’s magnetized. Hairsprings stick together when exposed to magnetic fields, causing the watch to race.

• The Culprits: Laptop speakers, iPad covers, magnetic clasps on bags, and MagSafe chargers.

• The Fix: Buy a cheap demagnetizer (see the tool section below). It fixes the problem in seconds.

3. The "Crown Rule"

This is the golden rule of water resistance: Never, ever touch the crown while the watch is wet. Even if your diver is rated to 300m, opening the crown or pushing chronograph buttons underwater breaks the seal and floods the movement.

Phase 2: Cleaning Your Watch (The Right Way)

A dirty watch isn't just gross; grit acts like sandpaper between bracelet links, causing "stretch" (loosening) over time.

For Steel Bracelets:

Take the bracelet off the watch head. Soak the bracelet in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap. Use a soft toothbrush to scrub the grime from between the links. Rinse and dry.

For the Watch Head (Case):

Do not submerge vintage watches or those with unknown water resistance. Instead, use a damp soft-bristle brush or cloth to clean around the bezel and lugs.

• Warning: Never put the watch head in an Ultrasonic Cleaner. The high-frequency vibrations can shake the oil out of the movement jewels or loosen screws.

For Leather Straps:

Water is the enemy. Wipe them down with a dry cloth. If they look dry or cracked, a tiny amount of leather conditioner (once every few months) goes a long way.

Phase 3: The Toolkit

You don't need a full watchmaker's bench, but every collector needs a "first aid kit." These are the tools that pay for themselves.

Category	Tool	Why You Need It
Straps	Spring Bar Tool	The absolute essential. Allows you to swap straps and change the look of your watch.
Straps	Extra Spring Bars	Because eventually, one will fly across the room and vanish into the carpet dimension.
Cleaning	Microfiber Cloths	Keep one in your pocket, one in your case, and one on your desk.
Cleaning	Soft Toothbrush	The best tool for getting "wrist cheese" out of bezels and clasps.
Maintenance	Demagnetizer	A $15 tool that saves you a $100 trip to the repair shop.
Maintenance	Polywatch	If you have acrylic crystals (like a Swatch or vintage Rolex), this paste buffs out scratches in minutes.
Inspection	Loupe (4x or 10x)	Helps you inspect a used watch for damage before buying, or just admire the dial texture.
Storage	Silica Gel Packs	Throw these in your watch box. They absorb moisture and prevent mold/rust during storage.

Phase 4: Long-Term Strategy

Service Intervals

Mechanical watches are like cars—they need oil changes.

• Modern Mechanicals: Service every 5–7 years.

• Vintage: Treat them gently; service when amplitude drops or timekeeping gets erratic.

• Quartz: Change the battery as soon as it dies. A dead battery can leak acid and destroy the movement.

The "Winder" Debate

Do you need a watch winder?

• Yes: If you have a Perpetual Calendar or Moonphase watch (setting these is a pain).

• No: For simple 3-hand watches. Modern oils are synthetic and won't "gum up" if the watch sits stationary. Giving the movement a rest actually reduces wear and tear.

Red Flags: When to Call a Pro

If you see any of these, stop wearing the watch immediately and get it to a watchmaker:

1. Condensation: Fog under the glass means the seals failed. Rush it to service to prevent rust.

2. The "Rattle": If you hear something loose clanking inside (that isn't the rotor).

3. Grinding: If winding the crown feels like grinding coffee beans.

Final Thoughts

Maintenance isn't a chore; it's part of the bond you build with the machine. A scratched, well-worn watch that runs perfectly tells a better story than a pristine watch that sits in a safe. Keep it clean, keep it dry, and it will likely outlive you.